Brother Green, very humble and very attentive

“Flowers in Concrete” is Giuliano Calza’s collection of concrete, resilient figures who defy the haters and stay one step ahead of the crowd. They inspired his GCDS spring 2025 collection, presented at the Milan Bourse on a fresh grass runway to a soundtrack created by Charli XCX, who took 15 years to go from MySpace singer to election-influencer pop star Brat.

“This is the energy of my generation,” Calza said backstage. “Basically, you get rejected over and over again… But if you stand up for your colors at the end, you can do it.”

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The atmosphere was mindful, as it harkened back to nature with the scent of freshly cut grass and natural wines. But it was also like a sweaty rave, he said, where everyone had their own personality, wearing bright colors, including plenty of Brat green.

The most important element of the outfit was a V-shaped costume made of mesh and tulle, slightly transparent like a swimsuit, but shiny like an evening dress – on both women and men.

Textures ranged from sheer to shaggy, and these skimpy bodysuits were paired with restrained minidresses and bomber jackets with raw edges and beautifully draped skirts. Sheer tights or knee socks added a quirky touch to the sophisticated looks, which were balanced by a variety of sexy, sheer lingerie pieces, as well as versatile windbreakers, sweatpants and leather bomber jackets.

“That’s the vibe,” he laughed, “always a gentle rave… but let’s give it a little more restrained edge.”

Calza also expanded its accessories offering with more elegant styles, including the Call Me Comma acetate bag in tortoiseshell and leather duck heeled boots.

He reprised the sheer GCDS bodysuit that Doja Cat made famous this summer, but put it on a male model, as suggested by his stylist Carine Roitfeld, he said backstage. And he leaned into the leather look for summer, as seen on Angelina Jolie when she brought fall fashion to a sweaty Venice Film Festival in August.

Calza clearly has his finger on the pulse of popular culture, but he also doesn’t forget about himself — or the kids who helped grow his brand to where it is today.

“I think I live in the best of both worlds,” the designer said.

Premiere Gallery: GCDS Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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