IMF’s Leading Theme Wasn’t Ready for Spring – Essence

Milan Fashion Week’s theme may have been the whimsical clothes that appeared on the runway during its many presentations. Despite the many differences between the garments, the designers made no secret of their design skills. There was a level of experimentation that seemed profoundly impressive – but equally prevalent were the usual suspects. Milan gave way to refreshing designs that didn’t feel rigid, instead offerings that were unpretentious and a bit flashy. The latter is particularly indicative of the ability of designers like Maximillian Davis’ Ferragamo to shine rather than be consumed by the MFW’s overcrowded calendar.

The ballerina core was revived and given new life at Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2025 presentation. Drawing inspiration from American dancer and choreographer Katharine Dunham, Davis presented an elegant wardrobe for ballerinas off-duty. This collection was probably my favorite to come out of MFW—as a former dancer who studied ballet for almost 10 years, it spoke to me. The textured outerwear paired with the concise combination of deep brown and blush was aesthetically pleasing, and deep chestnut and cherry red were even used convincingly. Some of the collection’s tailored pieces, like the bodysuits, were interesting—as were the dresses, which floated expressively on the models’ shapes, delving into sophisticated territory.

The Attico collection seemed to be the polar opposite of Ferragamo’s. The clothes of Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio seemed like the armor that stylish women should seek out for a new chapter in their lives. If someone is entering a new era after a seismic change in their life, such as a new role or perhaps a breakup, the collection is noteworthy enough. Shades of light pink, canary yellow and rich grays were chosen. This color palette allowed for a sophisticated collection. Transparent skirts and dresses, as well as cage heels, were some of the most fascinating and sensual pieces from the season’s new arrivals.

Donatella Versace ushered in a spring that will be marked by eccentric, bold pieces. Models showed off work-ready ensembles: elegant jackets, a low-rise blue suit, patterned cardigans and sheer red tights. While not exactly spring-ready, the collection made an impression. Sequins are present even in Donatella’s take on the coming spring, as are lilac platform sandals. A camel-colored leather jacket worn with cutoff shorts and a rich blue button-down shirt is an outfit for someone who marches to the beat of her own drum.

Bottega Veneta’s relaxed, understated suiting was a big deal. Much of the collection toed the line between office-appropriate pieces like trousers, silk dresses, and statement outerwear—these new pieces were paired with colorful sweater ensembles, as well as ruffled textures seen on skirts, coats, and more. The headpieces worn with some of the looks seemed to pay homage to childhood dream creatures. One asymmetrical wrap skirt worn with pants felt like a statement of sorts. Much like the oversized nature of nearly every piece that appeared on the runway, is wearing oversized pants and other casual choices cool? According to Matthieu Blazy, yes.