Proenza Schouler Spring 2025 is all about casual details

On Wednesday morning, two days before the official start of New York Fashion Week, Proenza Schouler’s spring 2025 collection by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wafted through the airy, bright Tribeca loft like a cool breeze heralding the changing of the seasons.

Was there a major change coming? Not really. The loose tailoring, fringed knits and long dresses done with the gentlest of minimalist deconstruction were Proenza through and through. But there was more to it than in recent seasons. McCollough said as much backstage, noting that after a few collections spent paring things down and stripping them down to the brand’s “core,” there was nothing left to strip. So they built the clothes back up.

Daywear was defined by stripes—both vertical and horizontal—on voluminous, flowing shirt dresses, wraparound knits, and belted coats. Hernandez cited the work of American artist Barnett Newman, whose linear, striped, and square paintings were a source of inspiration for Proenza Schouler’s collection. Newman’s influence led to a nautical feel for spring: low-rise trousers with sailor buttons and shirts with navy lapel collars. Simple silhouettes formed the basis for the looks, which the designers embellished with pleats and lapels placed artfully on the bias. A khaki shirt had a trench coat belt as a collar. A leather smock dress featured giant buckles on straps wrapped around the hips, as if the shirt were tied around the waist. Jackets were finished with metal belt loops. Dresses were cut with eyelet panels. The final series of looks included strapless dresses trimmed with long, quietly wild fringes in lavender and ivory. Everything had a deliberately botched, haphazard ending. “We just went with it, like a stream of consciousness,” Hernandez said. At times, they pushed the freeform details to their limits—but never overstepped them.