ESSENCE Fashion House: Edvin Thompson and L’Enchanteur Designers with Theophilio on Aesthetic Armor – Essence

At this year’s ESSENCE Fashion House, the atmosphere was buzzing with anticipation as Edvin Thompson, designer and founder of Theophilio, and the purposeful twin siblings behind the purposeful brand L’Echanteur took the stage. Across from him sat Barkue Tubman-Zawolo, ESSENCE Venture’s Chief of Staff, ready to lead a conversation that touched on both the soul of fashion and its external manifestations.

The crowd, a mix of designers, creatives, and fashion enthusiasts, settled in with a quiet excitement. They knew this was more than a discussion of trends—this was a discussion of identity, narrative, and the responsibility of representing one’s background in every piece of work one creates.

Thompson wasted no time delving into the heart of his story. “For me, fashion has always been about more than just making clothes,” he began, his voice calm but full of passion. “It’s about making something real, something that tells a story—not just my story, but the stories of the people I grew up with.” That sentiment was echoed by Thompson’s fellow panelists, who spoke about the legacy that permeates the threads of their designs. Dynasty and Soull Ogun, the visionary twin sisters behind L’Enchanteur, have cultivated a brand ethos that’s as layered and mystical as the designs they create.

As 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, their work seamlessly combines cultural memory with innovative craftsmanship, embodying a dialogue between their Nigerian-American heritage and expansive spiritual imagination. L’Enchanteur is more than a fashion brand—it is a cultural archive, with each piece serving as a tribute to the twins’ Yoruba roots and their ongoing exploration of African diasporic identity.

The audience nodded as Thompson and the Ogun twins outlined the challenges of maintaining an honorable brand narrative despite the pressures to compress the dimension behind black art. All of the artists’ current collections reflect a deep respect for storytelling, mythology, and ancestral wisdom, with intricate jewelry, textiles, and clothing that reflect the sacred rituals and living traditions of their lineage.

Theophilio, a brand born from Thompson’s Jamaican roots, has become known for its uncompromising blend of Caribbean culture with a global fashion sensibility. It’s a celebration of color, texture, and movement—reflecting the energy of dancehall or the freedom of the Jamaican coast. But as Thompson explains, it’s also a responsibility. “When I design, it’s never separate from my culture. They always speak to each other.”

During the conversation, Tubman guided Thompson through his thoughts on navigating the high-pressure world of fashion. He spoke about being named the CFDA’s Emerging Designer of the Year for 2021, appreciating the honor but quickly grounding it in his commitment to authenticity. Helping others like him feel seen, he noted, remains a goal even beyond industry approval. This element united the co-panelists, who have tirelessly crafted a customer-facing vision for their brand that emphasizes their authentic insights. By embracing symbolism and reimagining historical iconography, the Ogun sisters imbue their work with a soulful connection that transcends trends. L’Enchanteur’s practice is about reclamation, offering designs that speak to both the past and the future, informed by the belief that fashion can be a tool for healing, empowering, and preserving culture.