Musical chairs at the top as Paris Fashion Week gets underway

Paris Fashion Week kicks off on Monday (September 23) amid rumours of “musical chairs” for some of the industry’s most iconic brands.

Falling profits at two luxury giants, LVMH and Kering, have sent shockwaves through the industry, sparking “Game of Thrones” gossip among top designers.

Hedi Slimane of Celine and Simon Porte Jacquemus – the young French designer who made small handbags and everything else small – are said to be filling Karl Lagerfeld’s empty seat at Chanel. Virginie Viard, who took over after the emperor’s death in 2019, resigned in June.

Expect to see rumors during the spring/summer shows about where John Galliano, whose contract with Maison Margiela is coming to an end, might move next.

Rising young French star Victor Weinsanto – nicknamed the “Jacquemus of the East” because he hails from eastern Alsace – is embarking on a nine-day marathon of 66 performances, not to mention countless off-schedule shows and presentations.

However, the most spectacular event on Monday will probably be the show of sponsor L’Oreal in front of the Paris Opera, and guests will probably include ambassadors of the cosmetics giant: Jane Fonda, Kendall Jenner and Eva Longoria.

The first big shows will take place on Tuesday, with Dior and Saint Laurent taking over. The packed schedule reflects Paris’ overwhelming dominance over rivals Milan, New York and London.

And finally, there is no respite: Chanel opens the last day of the fair on October 1, returning to the enormous Grand Palais, site of some of Lagerfeld’s most spectacular shows, after a four-year hiatus.

The brand is planning to spend 30 million euros (43.4 million Singapore dollars) on the right to host shows at the iconic Belle Epoque building, which reopened after a major renovation to host fencing and taekwondo competitions during the Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Following the departure of Viard – long Lagerfeld’s right-hand woman – observers are expecting a collection based on Chanel classics.

In contrast, fireworks could be in order at Alessandro Michele. The capricious Italian designer who transformed Gucci may want to make his presence known with his debut show for Valentino.

Party at Disneyland

Equally eagerly awaited is the French duo Coperni, who will perform at Disneyland Paris on the final evening, and the after-party at the amusement park promises to last until dawn.

Designers Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer had a successful outing designing Belgian singer Angele’s outfit for the Olympic closing ceremony, and they clearly feel like celebrating.

“It all started with a dream,” they wrote on Instagram. “Disneyland Paris is all about fun and excitement. We are working closely with the Disney teams to create a magical moment that you can share with everyone.”

Another hot duo, the Olsen twins, Los Angeles child actors turned designers, have kept their luxury line The Row at real fashion week thanks to a cash injection from the owners of Chanel and L’Oreal.

However, Victoria/Tomas will also be there, having ended its run in June after eight years on the podium in Paris.

Despite winning the Pierre Berge and ANDAM competition last year, Avellano will also be absent, as will long-time team member Y/Project, who lost their lead designer Glenn Martens to Diesel.

This time, there will be no Givenchy in Paris either. At the helm is a new British designer, Sarah Burton, who has worked with Alexander McQueen for a quarter of a century and has just been appointed creative director.

Parisian hipsters Acne Studio return to the runways after previously flirting with hors d’oeuvres and champagne presentations.